You asked, we answer. Reliable 3D printing experience – Magigoo.
Here at Magigoo we strive to ensure that you, the user has a smooth and reliable 3D printing experience. We do our utmost to make our products easy to use and to continually improve the performance and user experience of our products. We have included some information from your feedback and questions below. If this information still does not answer your questions, feel free to drop us a line.
1.The print is still warping what can I do?
There are several reasons why this can happen, these include:
- Using the incorrect settings – Magigoo® has an optimum temperature range where it offers the best adhesive performance – a guide on how to tweak your settings can be found here (3D Printing – Warping and its causes). If you want to learn more about 3D printer settings and how to avoid 3D print warping you can find more information on our blog posts (Temperature and first layer adhesion, Better settings, less warping and Perfect first layer)
Figure 1: Prints using the same material warping to different extents when being printed at different bed temperatures.
- Not using a brim – Some materials still require that a brim is used in combination with the optimum settings for best performance. In some instances, for example with Cura, it is also possible to use a brim on the inside perimeter of the part as well (Figure 3).
Figure 2: Printing using a brim helps improve first layer adhesion.
Figure 3: Unticking the “Brim only on outside” in Ultimaker Cura will enable a brim in the inner perimeter of your part where possible, this helps improve adhesion further!
- Incorrect first layer height – if your nozzle is too far away from your bed or else way too close, the adhesion of your 3D prints will not be ideal.
Figure 4: Image showing results of the nozzle being too far away, at an ideal level and too close from/to the build plate – image via Prusa Printers. Original image.
- Using a cooling fan when you shouldn’t – some materials shrink considerably on cooling. It is good practice to keep the cooling fan off for the first 5 to 10 layers of your print.
- Using a first layer speed which is too high – Some materials such as ASA, PC and PP need some time to interact with the build-plate adhesive, using speeds which are too high can cause poor first layer adhesion. As a general rule we recommend 20 mm/s or lower for the first layer.
2. The part is stuck to the build-plate and I can’t remove it?
There are several reasons why this can happen depending on the material and printing parameters:
- Printing too close to the bed or with a very high material flow on the first layer, ‘pushes’ the material into the adhesive layer and/or the build-plate substrate. This tends to cause over adhesion which will make part removal very difficult.
- The material to adhesive combination does not ‘release’ on cooling. For example, TPUs, TPEs, some types of PLA, some types of Nylon and Glass-filled PP with Magigoo® PP-GF do not become easier to remove even upon cooling.
While it is tempting to grab a spatula and potentially convert your 3D printing space to an abattoir, there are several methods which can be used to safely remove a printed part which is too stuck to the build plate:
- Make sure that the build-plate is completely cooled down before attempting removal. Sometimes the temptation to remove a print is too high and one can easily forget that Magigoo® sticks when hot and releases when cold. A part removal tool (Figure 5) can be used if the part is partially detached or it can be easily and safely slid under the part, gentle tapping on the sides of the part can also help with the release of the part.
Figure 5: Take care when using a print removal tool to remove prints – Image via Ultimaker. Original image.
- If even after the print has completely cooled down, it is still stuck, one method to help with part removal is to use water. One can either wet around the part with water or else submerge the whole build-plate under water. If the part has a brim it is suggested to first peel off the brim from around the part before wetting the build-plate. The part should be easy to remove after 10 minutes, if not a spatula can be carefully slid underneath the part to introduce water to the areas which are still stuck or by submerging the part for a longer time. This method is a useful way to remove delicate parts, made out of flexible or soft materials.
- Glass filled PP parts printed on Magigoo® PP-GF work differently from regular materials. As the heated bed is deactivated after the first layer of printing, the build-plate is already cool. In order to facilitate part removal one can turn back on the build plate and heat it to a temperature of between 70 and 90 °C after the print is complete and remove the part when the build-plate is hot.
3. Magigoo® is not flowing out, the foam tip has dried up
- The Magigoo® pen has a spring-loaded valve in the applicator, this means that when applying Magigoo® the applicator has to be pushed against the print bed for it to be activated. Please also note that the seal of the valve has to be broken when the Magigoo® pen is first used, which might require slightly more force the first time. (Figure 6)
Figure 6: Depress nib on build plate to activate nozzle, Magigoo should then easily flow out!
- Also note that after long periods of not being used or if the screw on cap is not used, the residual Magigoo® in the foam tip can solidify and clog the nozzle. This can be easily unclogged by wetting the foam tip with some water.
- DO NOT under any circumstance press the sides of the bottle with any more force than a gentle squeeze –if Magigoo® still does not flow out, a very light squeeze can be used to help the Magigoo® flow out. If you squeeze the bottle too hard, the applicator can pop out, followed by the contents of the bottle.